Kiwi Indian Motorcycle Company

By Mike Kiwi Tomas

Kiwi Indian Motorcycle Co

Introduction

While a lot of these processes may seem simple, it does someone with mechanical abilities and good eyes to observe things beyond what is described here. These bikes are quite old and have usually had many different hands in them over the years making them minefields in many cases.

Indian transmissions are a 3 speed crash box meaning that the gear teeth are not constantly meshed (like a modern transmission) and slam into each other during gear changes therefore resulting in a very harsh operating environment. It is highly recommended that you use only the highest quality materials and parts for your transmission rebuild. Modern gear alloys (8620 or 9310) are not designed to be used in crash boxes while some older materials like 4820 are specifically designed and engineered to take this gear changing abuse. Choose wisely and the more effort you put into your transmission rebuild and the higher quality components you use will result in trouble free long life.

Assembly Instructions

* Check the 7/16 NC threaded holes in crankcase and if in any doubt fit a threaded insert. I prefer to use a shell type insert over a Helicoil in this application

* Once transmission is clean, inspect everything very carefully. If cases have been glass beaded, the only way to ensure they are perfectly clean is to scrub them in hot soapy water and blast them off with a hose afterwards. Glass bead is an abrasive and can linger in tiny cavities and will destroy your transmission gears and bearings in a short amount of miles.

* Check sprocket driver gear (SDG) bushing and splines for wear and that the thread is in good condition.

* The right (output) side countershaft bushing in many instances may have become loose in the case as the interference fit at the factory was marginal at best and would usually move during service. Even though it may still be in the case and appear ok, remove it regardless just to check since this is a common problem area. The left (clutch) side bushing is generally ok however it is easy to check this one for looseness by trying to move it. If bushings have spun it is recommended to line bore the case true again in order to restore the correct shaft center distance/gear mesh. Incorrect gear mesh will lead to premature gear failure.

* Check rear transmission mount and the 4 mounting feet for cracks. Sit the 4 mounting feet on a surface plate to ensure they are flat. This pic shows the 2 most likely places the rear transmission mount cracks.

* Ensure transmission feet sit flat against the 4 pads in the crankcase. In some instances some aftermarket transmission cases (notably 4 speed) may need extra clearance. This picture shows the transmission feet being relieved in order to clear the crankcase.

* Check transmission case for stripped threads. Even if the lower transmission to primary cover mounting threaded hole (1/4-20) appears ok, it is advisable to replace it with a Helicoil thread insert. If this hole has broken into the inside of the transmission it will require sealing with an epoxy aluminum such as Devcon.

* The 1/4-20 top chain guard mounting hole (right front) is a high wear item which usually requires an upgrade to a Helicoil. Do it now as it's pretty much impossible later on after it is bolted to the engine.

* Check the transmission lid chainguard mounting boss standoff for cracks and correct height which is 3/4" overall height from the gasket surface however some earlier models are shorter. If you do not want to weld repair this boss it can be machined off and a suitable spacer made in order to reclaim it.

* Check all other holes for stripped threads and possible cracks stemming from them.

* Re-tap all threaded holes so as to clean out crud and glass beads. Glyptal coat inside of transmission if necessary as some early cases are very porous and in other instances cases have become corroded and require coating to fully seal them.

* Tap right side of countershaft removal hole to 1/8 pipe thread (no need to pre-drill as the existing hole works out perfect) as this is an upgrade to eliminate an oil leak spot. After tapping, tighten plug (661001 slotted plug) to ensure it does not go beyond being flush with the inside machined surface of the case as it must not apply any pressure to the countershaft. If it should protrude beyond this surface, grind the end of the plug. Remove plug for now as it will be reinstalled at a later date.

* Press new countershaft bushings into place by preheating case to 250 degrees F and lubricating surfaces. Never tap bushings or bearings into place otherwise damage to these parts will result. Ensure proper alignment is maintained at all times. We have found it best to invest in alignment fixtures and mandrels to ensure proper alignment. Tapered outside diameter end of bushing goes in 1st. This taper angle (10-15 deg) is very important as many bushings have the wrong (45 deg) taper on them which causes the hole to be broached (enlarged) during bushing installation which results in a loose fit again. Slide countershaft into place to ensure proper alignment.

* Press bearings into place while case is still hot. Right side (output) bearing is a sealed bearing while the left side (clutch) is a shielded bearing. Always PRESS bearings into position on the outside diameter race. Never press on the inside diameter or tap bearings on the inside race into position as this damages the bearings. Tighten output side bearing retaining nut (seal has already been fitted to the retainer prior to this step) with Loctite 567 being applied to the threads.

* Press cluster gear bushings into place however there is a decision to be made, A/ Are you going to stick with the stock bushing set up or B/ Upgrade to the heavy duty Kiwi "ROLLER" bearing conversion. There are 2 types of bearing conversions available on the market, 1 being a "needle" bearing (light duty "B" series Torrington not sold by Kiwi) which only has 3/32 diameter rollers while the other being the heavy duty "roller" bearing ("WJ" series Torrington) design which has larger 1/8 diameter rollers. We only sell and recommend the heavy duty "roller" bearing type as it takes 40% extra loading (per bearing) over needle bearings and will not fail. More can be read on this in a separate tech section on our website.

* If using bushings, press bushings with slotted end facing outwards. 1st step is to fit the left side bushing (large gear end) until it is flush with end of gear during service. Fit spacer into bore of gear ensuring slot is lined up with the oil holes. In all reality, the spacer is not required as the bushings go in with plenty of interference fit and there is very little side thrust. Right side bushing (small diameter end) is to be left proud approx 3/32" above gear face in order to obtain proper end float of .010. Machine this end of the bushing to obtain .010 end float. Bushings are specifically designed to have a helical oil groove along its inside diameter as this helical groove reduces edge loading while a straight groove causes high edge loading that will lead to rapid wear. Some claim the helical oil groove acts as an oil pump but this is not so as it is specifically designed to eliminate edge loading.

* If upgrading to Kiwi roller bearings, the end float still remains at .010 by using the supplied thrustwashers.

* Line hone cluster gear bushings to .003 clearance. Do not run anything less than .003 clearance otherwise seizure (and possible rear wheel lock up) will result.

* Test fit slider gear over the mainshaft splines. At times there maybe some incompatibility between the slider gear and mainshaft splines. If this is the case it may require re-indexing the slider splines over the mainshaft or they may require some lapping with a lapping compound. When using an original mainshaft we have found the spline indexing up to .009 out of from spec therefore custom fitting will be required.

* Clutch Sprocket: Ensure studs are not loose in the clutch sprocket and stud threads are in good condition. Check bearing fit over the snout and that the snout threads are in good condition. Ensure bushing is flush with threaded end surface (it is ok to be up to .025 proud on clutch side of sprocket). Hone bushing to .0015-.002 clearance.

The generator drive should have its necessary modifications and upgrades done at the same time of this overhauling. Please see "Generator Drive Bearing and Seal upgrade and installation" section for his information.

Assembly

* Alignment of the transmission to the engine is important before fitting the inner primary. Alignment is accomplished by loosening the 4 mounting bolts so as to align the engine flange to the transmission flange. This can be done by using straight edges or a new inner primary cover.

*Check fit of inner primary over the engine flange and transmission flange as in some cases some manufacturers of inner primary's make the inside diameters too small which will require opening up. In other cases the center distance between the transmission and engine may not be to spec and shims will required under each foot. Shims come in a set of 4 and are .008 thick (shim kit p/n 22B59/0) and are made of aluminum so as to blend in. (

* Fit gaskets to engine and transmission flanges. Originally gaskets were not used between the inner primary and engine flange and transmission flange however many years ago we identified this as an oil leak problem and designed gaskets to solve this problem. Gaskets also reseal themselves should the outer cover ever be removed at a later date. Previous to our gaskets, only sealant was applied to these surfaces and when the primary cover and bolts were removed, this would then break the sealant joint and an oil leak would exist. In order to fix the leak, the transmission would need to be dismantled (which is a major operation).

* Fit inner primary cover.

* Apply sealant to the underside of the 3 countersink screw heads which locate and hold the inner primary cover in position. These 3 screws are to be fitted with nyloc nuts.

* Apply sealant to the countershaft seal and place it into the right side countershaft bushing hole. Once in position apply additional sealant to the seal. This then becomes an insurance policy once the countershaft is fitted however sealant will not be necessary if upgrading to the Kiwi threaded plug method.

* Place cluster gear in transmission but just let it rest in the bottom of the transmission for now. Do not fit the countershaft just yet.

* Sprocket driver gear: Bushing clearance is .0015-.002. This bushing MUST have a spiral groove along its inside diameter so as it will pull oil back into the transmission. At the time of writing this tech article, there are some bushings on the market that have the incorrect spiral oil groove or have straight cut grooves. Both of these will cause an oil leak on the right side of the transmission that cannot be fixed externally. Remove any burrs from the outside diameter of the SDG splines as this will ensure a nice trouble free fit into the bearing. Ensure the bushing is NOT proud above the gear face as the mainshaft thrustwasher must make contact with the gear, NOT the bushing. Apply a little oil to the outside diameter of the sprocket driver gear (SDG) so it will slide easier through right side bearing.

* Ensure SDG output spacer outside diameter is in perfect condition since any surface imperfections will decrease seal life. Apply sealant to each side face and inside diameter of the spacer and fit spacer over SDG. Fit output sprocket and tighten nut to 100 ft lbs using blue Loctite or its lockwasher. Warning: We have found some output sprockets on the market that have been made incorrectly which have too little spline width and some spacers that do not have the correct overall width as well. These defects will not allow the output sprocket nut to apply adequate pressure to the sprocket when it is fully tightened.even though the nut is tight. Any looseness here will damage the splines on the SDG over time.

* Lift cluster gear up into place and slide countershaft into position. If using roller bearings or thrustwashers to achieve correct end flat, thrustwashers are to be fitted to the output (right) side of gear.

* Fit snap ring ensuring it is properly seated in its groove. Fit 1/8 pipe plug with sealant and ensure there is no pressure being applied to the countershaft.

* Clutch sprocket busing clearance is .0015-.002. Bushing must not protrude beyond each end of the sprocket as the thrustwasher must ride directly up against the sprocket surface itself.

* This is the most opportune time to align the clutch sprocket and engine sprockets with each other as the inner primary cover has not been fitted yet which makes aligning easier to deal with. This also allows the use of a gear puller to get the engine sprocket off easily after the nut has been tightened down each time.

* Align engine and clutch sprockets with a straight edge. Fit shims (17A363K) between clutch sprocket and bearing as necessary in order to obtain alignment of within .010. The factory states sprocket alignment to be checked along the faces of the sprockets however it is best to check alignment with the sprocket teeth as the outside faces of the sprockets may not be accurate. Sprocket teeth are what must be in alignment with each other.

Alignment for 1950-53 80" compensating drive sprocket assembly A, B and C:

* A/ For 80" engines with a compensating drive assembly, setting the sprocket alignment is achieved by fitting the quill to drive shaft and then fitting the engine sprocket over the quilt. Fit nut to shaft so that the quill is held firmly in position. We usually fit a 74" drive shaft spacer during this aligning procedure.

* B/ Use a straight edge along the sprocket teeth to align the engine and clutch sprockets.

* C/ Fit shims between clutch sprocket and bearing as needed in order to achieve alignment. In some cases it may be necessary to remove material from the shoulder of the back side of the clutch sprocket but this is rare.

(The following is a continuance on for both compensating and non compensating drives)

* Remove clutch sprocket from primary.

* Fit mainshaft to transmission with the thinnest thrustwasher (.060) on the output side for a start. Fit another .060 thrustwasher to the clutch side. Fit clutch sprocket (along with shims) into transmission and check for mainshaft end float. End float is to be between .005 and .010 with the clutch sprocket nut tight. This procedure can be done without the lockwasher fitted for now. Adjust with necessary thrustwashers however always keep the thinnest thrustwasher on the output side as we want the kickstart shoulder on the mainshaft to protrude out as far out away from the transmission as possible.

* Remove clutch sprocket and mainshaft from transmission.

* Assemble mainshaft with its clutch side thrustwasher, clutch sprocket, clutch hub, woodruff key, lockwasher and left hand nut. Check that the tapers are in perfect condition and lap if necessary. Tapers should never have any oil on them. Tighten left hand threaded nut to 100 ft lbs.

* There are 2 shifter forks that are very similar in appearance, 1 being for Scout models and the other being for Chief models. While they appear to look similar they are not interchangeable. Scout models have reliefs machined to the underside of the fork while Chief models are as forged. The way the factory made this impossible to mix up during installation is they both had different shaft and hole diameters. Chief models had an approx .375 diameter shaft while Scout models are approx .360.

* Fit shifter fork into the slider and slide in the shifter fork shaft into position. Apply sealant to shifter fork shaft hole in right side of case.

* Screw in plug so as it butts up against the shaft. This shaft must be captured and not be able to move back and forth. Plug can be fitted with Blue Loctite or aluminum case can be burred over with a slotted punch (or screwdriver) as per the factory installation. Sometimes this thread can become damaged but it can be re-tapped to 7/16NF and a new plug made. P

* Bend over clutch sprocket nut lockwasher inner tab so it is angled to fit under the bearing inside radius. If left flat it can align itself with the thread relief (cutout) which can allow the lock tab to rotate during service therefore providing no locking properties.

* Slide the clutch sprocket, clutch hub, mainshaft assembly, engine sprocket and key, primary chain and generator drive shaft (with thickest .090 thrustwasher on) into position. As this assembly is slid in, fit clutch sprocket lockwasher and nut over the shaft from inside the transmission.

* At this point there is no need to final tighten the clutch sprocket nut or engine sprocket nut (just nip them up) as we're just seeing if we're in the ball park for the generator drive sprocket being centered between the chain links. If generator drive shaft is not centered, remove this assembly and re-fit with the appropriate thrustwasher thickness (Kit p/n KI-10105) until sprocket is centered. It is ok to multi-stack up thrustwashers against each other until centering is achieved.

* Upon final assembly it is highly recommended to use a lockwasher to lock the clutch sprocket nut in to position. While blue Loctite is considered an upgrade, this is one place where a lockwasher is preferred over Loctite. Loctite gums up the threads and makes this nut very difficult to remove since it's already in a confined space and a bastard to remove. Use Kiwi clutch sprocket nut tool p/n 27T350 as it has been redesigned to work better in this confined space. Final tightening MUST be done by impacting, a blunt cold chisel does the trick just fine. It is ok to use blue Loctite on the engine sprocket nut. Ensure shaft tapers are completely free of any lubricant. Engine sprocket nut torque is 100 ft lbs. (

* Slider shifter fork so slider gear is in neutral (between 1st and 2nd gears)

* Fit gasket upon transmission and ensure shifter bellcrank engages into the shifter fork. Check gear positions once cover is on.

* Set detent by screwing it all the way in until it bottoms out and back it out 3/4 of a turn. If too tight, unscrew it 1/8 of a turn at a time until proper tension is achieved then lock nut. Your shift lever should have positive and distinctive locations.

* Assemble clutch plates, pressure plates, worm bearing, worm, etc. "Please see Clutch assembly" instruction section for its proper assembly

* Ensure primary chain shoe tension spring is in good condition as originals and some aftermarket springs commonly break. For this reason we recommend replacing it just as a precaution. Look for signs of wear on the shoe itself and that the 4 rails are making contact with the chain rollers. At no time should the chain be making contact with the base of the shoe.

* Fit primary shoe assembly into position ensuring it is properly located under the chain.

* Screw primary chain adjuster screw into locknut with Loctite 567 until it protrudes about 1/2" out from the end. Apply Loctite 567 to the protruding thread and screw into primary cover until chain has approx 3/8 of up and down slack in it.

* Ensure clutch worm housing oil drain hole is in line with its mating hole in the cover and that it is not blocked from a previous wrong installation or crud. We recommend removing the clutch worm housing in order to reseal it with blue Loctite as this is a common oil weeping spot.

* Fit gasket to inner cover and special gasket over snout of inner cover center boss.

* Apply a little grease to the clutch worm.

* Fit outer cover ensuring dowel pins and primary shoe lever pivot pin align themselves with their corresponding holes. Tighten bolts evenly.

* Check that generator drive shaft is able to float back and forth easily. If shaft binds it can cause seizure during service. Size bushing in cover as necessary.

* Install generator drive shaft adjuster and locknut using Loctite 567. To obtain the correct end float, screw the adjuster all the way in and back it out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Move shaft back and forth to ensure proper end float has been achieved. Lock into position. NEVER adjust end float while engine is running.

* Recheck primary chain tension and readjust if necessary. Up and down slack is 3/8" which is 1/2 the diameter of the inspection hole. Lock into position.

* Apply sealant to clutch worm spacer side faces and worm shaft diameter.

* Fit worm lever so as lever is at approx the 2 o'clock position when the lever is rotated counterclockwise. The 2 o'clock position is achieved when you feel the lever become solid. If the 2 o'clock position cannot be obtained, remove the lever and turn it around 180 degrees. Kiwi clutch worm levers have their holes indexed differently from originals so as to achieve the perfect position. Tighten nut.

* Fit O-ring to inside of knurled nut. Apply a little oil to the outside diameter of the worm spacer.

* Apply Loctite 567 to the threads of the knurled nut. Tighten until resistance can be felt using valve cover pliers p/n 101826.

* For kickstart assembly see "Kickstart Assembly Instructions".

Notes:

* Whenever anything is being pressed into aluminum, the aluminum must be preheated to around 250 deg F and lubrication applied to all surfaces (unless Loctite is being applied).

* Pressing should be done with an arbor press. An arbor press is a precision press and keeps everything in perfect alignment. Hydraulic presses wobble around a lot and while they apply a lot of pressure they can also do a lot of damage in the wrong hands.

* Tapers are to always to be free of oil.

* Whenever using sealants or Loctite (other than 567), the mating surfaces must always be thoroughly clean and free of oil.

* When using James gaskets no additional sealant must be applied to them.

Oil Levels and Quantities:

Oil level plug for combined primary and transmission oil is found just under the clutch worm.

When filling, pour oil in slowly otherwise it will back up (not have time to flow across into the transmission) and come out the level plug giving you a false indication of being full. As a safety check once it is full, wait a minute and pour in just a tad more oil. If the level rises and it flows out the level plug hole you now know you have the correct amount in it. Also keep a mental note of how much you are putting in, 20-21 fl oz is the magic number.

Primary oil quantity when separated from transmission is 5-6oz (or to the level plug).

3 Speed transmission (when separated from primary) is 14-15 fl oz.

4 Speed transmission (when separated from primary) is 10-12 fl oz. Do not go by the level plug in the transmission on the output side as this will come up short.